Reaching New Heights – The Rise of the Pilot's Uniform

ere at Studio 104 we truly value history, whether it be the history behind a garment, an era, or the story behind a brand. Recently the Studio 104 design team carried out an inspiration trip to The Vintage Showroom in West London to immerse themselves in the vast archive of garments that have been collected by founders Roy Luckett and Doug Gunn.

It is impossible not to feel inspired when entering the showroom, every direction you look in is packed full of garments and clearly rich in history. You can only imagine the number of stories that could be told by the people who wore them. Nestled within the huge display of garments was a truly stand-out piece, the electrically heated flying suit dating back to the 1940’s. Intended to be worn by the Fleet Air Arm of the Royal Navy, the suit was designed to be highly practical, with a heating system wired in to help protect the pilots during flights with severe weather conditions.

This sparked a thought about just how much aviation uniforms have developed, and in particular how pilots clothing has advanced from survival pieces to uniforms which display status and authority, resulting in trust.

Post-World War I saw a pivotal change in pilots dressing standards. Many of the first commercial pilots were former combat aviators, and with no standardised dress code in place they would often wear clothing that had been worn during the war. As you can imagine this unnerved the new travelling public.

In 1931 in the hope to reassure passengers, Pan Am introduced an official uniform for their pilots, to be worn on the world-famous flying boats. Due to the nature of the flying boats that were being operated, the uniform naturally stepped away from the military pilot look and instead resembled the uniform of naval officers.

The 1936 Pan Am uniform, inspired by the Royal Navy, paving the way for future pilots’ uniforms.

This new uniform look adopted the same ranking system seen within both the military and the navy, a system that defines a person’s role and responsibility and is clearly seen through the different types of insignia worn as part of their uniform. The Pan Am uniform consisted of black double-breasted jackets with braided cuffs, featuring the rank of the crew member, worn with black trousers and a hat. Pilots’ shirts also featured epaulettes, with braided bars displaying their rank.

The amount of training that is required to become a pilot is undoubtedly substantial, and throughout a pilot’s career they are measured against their level of experience and hours spent flying. This is perhaps why pilots take such pride in their ranking, and why the insignia within the uniform is so important, because it clearly symbolises their achievements. The following whimsical story helps to explain the symbolism of each of the insignia.

Standing on the ground, they look up to their superiors at varying altitudes above them and begin climbing. The first obstacle to climb is the fence. The first and second ranking bars signify the first and second steps to the top of the fence. From the fence they climb up to the oak, a tree which symbolises both might and strength. The gold leaf, often embroidered into hats or seen within a pin badge, symbolizes this. The next step is to climb the tallest tree of the forest, the straight towering silver poplar which has no branches for many feet. It is a challenge to get to this level, and once achieved a silver leaf badge is received. From the top of this tree an eagle can be seen flying, the eagle is flying high which is why at this level a great deal of respect has been earnt. The wings are a badge of honour and are highly recognised within uniform. All that is above the eagle is the stars, the final achievement which comes with the highest regard.

It is important to add how pilots’ uniforms were originally only designed for men. During World War II there was a shortage in army pilots, so a group of female civilian volunteers known as the WASPs (Women Airforce Service Pilots) were brought in to free up male pilots for combat overseas. The women flew several different types of military aircraft as part of the program and contributed greatly to the war effort. The work they carried out was especially dangerous as the parachutes had been designed and made for men and so they were not suitably fitted for them as women. When the war ended the WASPs were not taken on by the military and to many of their disappointment were returned to their regular life. Today the percentage of female pilots remains very small, but it is growing at a positively high rate.

Over the years pilots’ uniforms have followed suit with very little adaptation. Whilst there isn’t a standardised rule for their uniform, it is key for passengers to feel safe on board, and to be able to look at their pilot for this reassurance.

What sets Studio 104 apart is our unwavering commitment to understanding the nuances of each brand we work with. Studio 104 recognize that a uniform is an extension of the brand's narrative, and our designs reflect this profound understanding. From functional elegance to a seamless integration of brand elements, Studio 104's uniforms stand as a testament to the transformative power of storytelling in design.

The Studio 104 team are world-leading specialists in creating bespoke uniform for luxury aviation, luxury hotels, hotel groups, luxury retail, high-end restaurants, luxury experiences, and corporate clients. We provide a dedicated, high-end service supplying exclusively designed, custom and contemporary uniforms.

To discover further Studio 104 bespoke projects visit our portfolio page, and for our detailed process, from uniform concept to manufacture and delivery, head to our process page.

‍Written by Jodie, Junior Designer 

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