Tailoring: Characteristics of the Neapolitan Style

ollowing on from one of our recent posts outlining the French style of tailoring, we delve into that of the Italians.

In an overall sense, the classic Neapolitan style of suiting is much lighter than others, making it an excellent choice for warmer climates. Here at Studio 104, we have a clients from around the globe and by implementing what we know about Neapolitan tailoring styles we can create designs that are ideal for more tropical climates and resort destinations.

In order to identify as classic Neapolitan suit, pay attention to:

Minimal or No Padding

A traditional Neapolitan jacket will feature no shoulder padding. This creates a very soft shoulder that follows the curves of the body and is inserted similarly to a shirt sleeve. Often the pattern is cut slightly bigger than the armhole and small gathers are sewn into the armscye.

Half, Buggy or No Lining

An unlined jacket will feel light to wear and will showcase the internal construction. With the style originating in Naples, it makes sense that these jackets are designed to keep the wearer cool and comfortable in the climate. Neapolitan jackets tend to also leave the sleeves unlined which is quite uncommon in any other style of tailoring. In the below image we can see how the tailors Sartoria Caliendo have finished the cuff on this jacket with a hand stitch that wouldn’t normally be seen if the sleeves were lined.

Three-Roll-Two

Though not exclusive to Neapolitan tailoring, it is most seen on this type of jacket.

A three-roll-two buttoning on a jacket is depicted below where the third button and buttonhole is inserted into the lapel to give it more structure and create a larger belly inside the lapel roll, it should never actually be buttoned. ­

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Pockets

A Neapolitan jacket will often feature curved patch pockets reflective of the softness of the jacket opposed to straight, hard edges of a rectangular patch. The same is to be said for the chest pocket where the most traditional style is cut in a Barchetta, which translated into English means “little boat”.

Here at Studio 104 we are able to offer client's many ways to work with us. This can range from a fully bespoke, highly creative uniform collection through to a pre-designed house uniform range (104 Collection) that can meet short lead times and keener budgets. We are particular specialists in men's tailoring, exemplified in our work with some of the world's finest luxury hotels, where the male look is of utmost importance. From heritage brands such as Gleneagles, The Savoy, Fortnum & Mason and Mandarin Oriental to the modern luxury brands such as NoMad, Nobu Ibiza Bay, The Fife Arms & The Newt in Somerset.

Written by Beth - Junior Designer

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View more Design Inspiration articles:

TAILORING: CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FRENCH STYLE

EXHIBITIONS OF INSPIRATION IN LONDON

BUILDING A SMART MENSWEAR WARDROBE FOR YOUR TEAM

THE CHALLENGES OF PARTNERING WITH A FASHION DESIGNER FOR YOUR NEW UNIFORM

CHINTZ: COTTON IN BLOOM EXHIBITION

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