The Need for Pattern Cutting

ach of our bespoke uniform collections have a proportion of pattern work allocated to them, allowing us to create and execute innovative shapes. Studio 104 work with local creative patternmakers who have a wealth of experience in the industry, producing garment patterns from scratch.

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The process begins with our design team preparing their design and handing over the garment to the patterncutters. A thorough brief is passed on that details key elements as well as verbalising its need to perform dependent on the uniform position. A good example is housekeeping, where pieces need to have extra room for movement and ease as this is a very manual job.

Once the first patterns have been drafted up on paper we request a full or half toile, dependent on whether the design is symmetrical. These initial toiles are made in calico, a specialist material typically used in the development process. Calico comes in various weights and therefore we select the weight which is closest to the final fabric selection. A fitting is arranged between our Technical Manager and Designer to discuss each angle of the toile to ensure everything has been considered and executed as requested.

As a finalised pattern is approved, it is added into our database using a program called Gerber, this software allows patterns to be created rapidly and then sent directly to the factory. Gerber is constantly adapting to the needs of the garment industry and we are now able to see these pattern pieces placed on a digital fit model, saving precious time in the garment process. To further improve on the lengthy garment manufacture, specialised patterncutters can now amend individual pattern pieces on screen.

Once the pattern is sent across to the factory, they sample the first prototype. We typically sample two to three times to ensure fit is perfect before gold sealing the uniform piece for production.

Tailors and dressmakers date back to as far as the 18th Century, we are proud to keep these artisian professions at the forefront of our bespoke projects as it sets our luxury uniform collections apart.
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Written by Danielle (Head of Design)